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Camper Awning Repair West Covina

Published Jun 03, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking handles tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, however pulled back both awning simply to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rain seamless gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Awning Repair West Covina. I'm presuming the repair will involve changing that whole size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant fixings, and so on, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we recognized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is fractured near the bottom and totally appeared on top, to make sure that the top support arm no more attaches to the camper. We are in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio sensible? Also the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey steel - it's the gray little bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just intending to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is broken it has to be totally replaced? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was all new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - maybe also get us via the summer - without having to place in a brand-new awning! We remain in an extremely significant bind because we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather find a quick and effective remedy. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally discover exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to find off first prior to the final steps of this blog post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Below's a detail of exactly how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not really need to do this step until the awning got on the ground yet I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, after that you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's similar to removing the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and afterwards just tug it out.

You might have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) HEADS UP! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by gliding the whole rail away.

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When the two set screws were eliminated I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once more I just tore up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I may finish up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass change. The roof covering decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change need to be raised. To raise that, the edge molding must be gotten rid of.

I could swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 vast putty blade. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that factor I changed from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same means, and bent it laterally just enough so that I could raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The side of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much stifling yet glue now) and then I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's just standing out via the staples. Finally the edge of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Exact same deal once again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting however adhesive at this point) and afterwards I can yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Camper Awning Repair West Covina. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are signed up with together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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