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La Habra Camper Repair

Published Jun 04, 25
10 min read

Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair La Habra, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has pulled away from the wall surface and turned a little bit - La Habra Camper Repair. I'm presuming the repair service will involve changing that whole length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using larger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major repairs, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The back brace assembly is great, however the front one is split at the base and entirely broken through on top, to make sure that the leading support arm no more fastens to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio affordable? Even the real support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply intending to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as advice as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us with the summertime - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly rather discover a fast and efficient remedy. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof decking, I require to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise notice exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off first before the final actions of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning installing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step till the awning got on the ground but I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded corner at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting bracket on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may need to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Then just pull it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite rapidly.

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point suddenly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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Once the 2 set screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. The roofing outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass shift have to be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding need to be removed.

I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scraper to a rigid 6 broad putty blade. This piece damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it laterally just sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply popping via the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Very same offer again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down but adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I could see the steel framing below. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't recognize just how specifically they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roofing system was losing strength and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's just popping with the staples. The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge. Exact same deal again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling yet glue at this point) and afterwards I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. La Habra Camper Repair. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the items together. I don't recognize just how precisely they handled to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are signed up with with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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